Kameari Japan and my triple OER Carburetors

So I’m back from Japan and my main goal of the trip was to pick up a set of triple carburetors. I ended up with brand new OERs which I bought from Kameari in Tokyo.

Triple 45mm OER carbs with L6 manifold and linkages, spare jets, 34mm venturis, heat shield, and fuel float level gauge. All of that and a broken bank account.

Lets revisit Kameari though. I had to catch a train to Yashio Station and then a taxi to get to Kameari, about a hour trip each way.

A relatively small workshop with a small store front, but it felt like they had everything needed to build a wild L series motor..

From pistons,

To extractors,

To well.. valve springs, valves, cranks, etc..

I thought I was going to be excited to see one of these but I got over it when I saw them at the JCCA New Year Meeting earlier in the month..

Kameari President Mori-san was a pleasure to deal with along with Seshimo. They had my carbs waiting for me and it was just a matter of giving them all of my money and taking the gear with me.

I did say I caught a train to and from Kameari, didn’t I?

Anyway, I got back to my apartment and took it all out for some photos and admiring all the shiny bits.

Then it was home time to try and get these babies installed and tuned…

Enjoying the car for what it is.

Updates are few and far between here now since there’s really not much else to do but drive the old girl!

I have just been driving the Z as much as I can, as often as I can since it is summer here in Australia. Every opportunity I get really.

The car has really been flawless..

Here are a few sample photos of the company I have been with, but please visit the below blogs for the full coverage!

Ying’s Noisy Ninja:



Charlie’s Jzxgarage:



And here are some pictures because everyone loves pictures..

And more recently, I have received Techno Toy Tuning rear lower control arms for my 25th birthday present from friends.

The main thing I would like to purchase now while I’m in Japan at the end of January is triple OER carburetors. Everything else is just a bonus.

Classic Japan 2014 Preparation – New cylinder head, front lip repairs, and seat installation

There were many jobs that needed to be completed by the 7th of December to make it to the 2014 Classic Japan event. Following on from the previous post, I had to repair my damaged front lip, change a head gasket/head cylinder due to an overheating issue and install my Kameari seats! This needed to be repaired.. I wasn’t going to fork out another $450 for a lip.. And these needed to be installed. Within the first week of working on the lip, allocating an hour or so every day after work into it, I managed to turn the lip into something like this.. It was at least one piece again. All fibreglassed back up. And then I managed to get some filler onto the lip to even out the large imperfections and it pretty much just sat like this for the next few weeks.. The tedious task of fixing the small imperfections took its toll. I could not be bothered doing it but as long as I managed to get rid of one spot a day or two, I was happy. Eventually, I got over seeing the lip in all different colours, making it harder to spot the imperfections also, I gave it a lick of primer. Work picked up on it and then it eventually got done a week before Classic Japan. Good as new! Rewinding a few weeks, during the stages of me not being motivated to repair the lip, I pulled my head off to see what the issue was. My car had kept chewing through coolant without a sign of any leaks. Nothing real obviously wrong with the head. Oh no.. What’s that in cylinder 6? Yep, there’s the coolant. So it was time to strip the head, get it skimmed and put a new headgasket on and hope for the best. And what can I say, things didn’t go to plan. The head was far too corroded to be reinstalled or repaired. As you can see in the cylinder closest, the water gallery is far too close to the combustion area causing the head gasket to go and leak water. I could reintall the head and use it for a short term but it would eventually blow again. It was time to source a new head, and that’s what I did.. $450 later.. Filthy, but it wasn’t as corroded as my old head. I stripped the head down, replaced the valve stem seals. Thanks to my mate Ricky for lending a hand get the valves back in. Home made tools aren’t the easiest things to use! Having adjusted the valve clearances, the new head was ready for installation. Those of you familiar with the L series motors, you would know that something needs to wedge into the chain to hold the tension while you remove the head.. Well I thought I did that right but… As you can see, I didn’t wedge the chain properly and had to remove my entire front casing to fix this up. A 15 minute job of reinstalling the head turned into a few hours. Anyway.. head went back on and all is well! While the head was off, I also painted my rocker covers wrinkle black, I unfortunately don’t have a photo of that yet. EDIT: Here it is..

Some of you may recall my cooling system being over pressurised and pouring out of the overflow once it got warm. Turns out it was the thermostat being installed the wrong way! Oooopssss… Easy fix. Now that the car was driveable again, that motivated me to finish off the front lip.. Last job before Classic Japan, installing the Kameari seats. Comparing them to the standard seats, the Kameari seats were a lot narrower so the rails needed to be modified. Simple enough.. Little did I know that ‘simple’ task took an entire day of running around. It got in there eventually. They look great! Tight around the hips but bearable. The car is now ready for Classic Japan which was held the following day. Sunday morning came around and it was pouring down with rain. A group of us woke up at 6:30am and had a talk about whether we were going to the event. Some of us had never driven in the rain before. With Classic Japan being one of the biggest events of the year, and the amount of effort we all put in to get the car ready, we decided to go… It was a great turnout despite the poor weather. Driving in the rain was very interesting. Windscreens fogging up, wipers not working properly.. Definitely an experience. 1pm rolled on by and the weather had taken a turn for the worse so we decided to leave. Charlie and I raced.. I lost lol. I had no traction whatsoever being on the tram tracks. Charlie – 1, Adam – 0. We all lined up at Karl’s place and went for lunch. And that’s how it all went down. Everyone made it home safe, defect free. My car gave me no troubles. On the way home, this happened. The clocks went around and I now have a new car! I have a trip to Japan booked for January 2015, this is where I will be attending the JCCA New Year Meeting in Tokyo. For those who aren’t familiar with the JCCA New Year Meeting, it is basically one of the biggest gatherings of classic cars in Japan, where a swap meet is also held! I can’t wait to see what I could pick up over there. Triple carbs is next on the list. Until then, it’s all about enjoying the car this summer.

OEM Head light covers, Kameari Seats, and Broken Air Dam

Hey all, so following on from my previous post about future mods, I had planned on buying OEM head light covers and triple carburetors.. I have not yet picked up a set of triples, but I have got the OEM head light covers and purchased Kameari seats.

Before I get into that there were a few little things I wanted to do. I first cut and rewelded the shifter as after installing the RB gearbox, neutral was sitting far too close to the radio.

You can see the angle the original shifter was sitting at. I simply cut it at the bottom and rewelded it together where it needed to be.

Second issue was the leaking heater tap. You can probably see why. This fixed up the hot interior even when the valve was closed.

Next up was the refurbishment of the steering wheel. I just gave it a new lick of paint and tried to clean it up a little and I think it now looks great.

So while I was researching triple carbs and looking out for head light covers, these seats came up at a price I couldn’t turn down so I picked them up on the day. Kameari seats! I actually don’t think they’re the real deal but who’s to complain.. I think they’ll look great in the car.

I am yet to have these installed, just been a little lazy!

Next up, I bought a pair of very average condition OEM head light covers from Yahoo Japan. Not the cheapest things these days but I think my car needed them and I think they look awesome on the car!

I think they have set the front end off with their chrome trim. Comparing it to how it was before..

Once the head light covers were installed, it was great weather for a drive on Sunday.

Going for the drive though, it was obvious my head gasket was gone. Throughout the day, my car chewed through over 5 ltrs of coolant.

Some great shots were had on the day, thanks to Ying and Charlie.

After these photos were taken, I unfortunately ran over a small branch and it ripped my entire front air dam off along with my indicators and it went under the car.. It was a windy day (heaps of fallen branches) and not being able to see very far in front… :(

You can read more and see more photos on Ying’s awesome blog (http://noisyninja.wordpress.com/2014/09/29/driving-slow-on-sunday-morning-and-i-never-want-to-leave-2/). And so I drove home without indicators and this is how the ‘lady sits while I try to repair the air dam..

Once the air dam is repaired, I will need to source new indicators and eventually get around to changing my head gasket. The car isn’t driveable in its current state.

Deadline is Classic Japan on the 7th of December! Until then…

General Update – Dyno and future modifications

Hey all, I just wanted to give a small update.

Since the new gearbox and clutch has gone in, the car’s been great. I can shift into second gear again without cringing at the crunch it used to make, and the clutch no longer slips. The only downside is that the gearbox does not sound like it’s been refurbished as 5th gear has a slight bearing sound. Other than that and the reverse lights not working, the gearbox/clutch side of things has been great.

I managed to finally dyno the Z as well at Road Track Rally.

It pulled a surprising 84rwkw from the standard L28 with SU carbs! Besides the slightly lean mixtures, after a few adjustments, she pulled very nicely although idle is now a little rich. I unfortunately don’t have a dyno graph.

Now onto future plans, I have done some research into purchasing a set of triple carburetors and I am leaning towards new OER or Weber carbs. Both in kits so that it will be a simple bolt in affair. Only thing holding me back at this stage is the large cost of it, about $2300 for the goods and then another $250 or so for jets to tune.

Along with the carbs, I have also wanted to buy the OEM headlight covers for the Z which has the chrome trims, but again, high cost of about $800 a pair, second hand. I feel like I need them to finish off the look of my front end though.. 

TIme to save!

FS5W71C gearbox conversion – Part 2 and engine overhaul

This post will be continuing on from the previous post about the FS5W71C / RB gearbox conversion which can be seen HERE, and I will also be going through a quick guide of how to change basic maintenance items on an L28 motor. The change in seals, etc, should be the same for the L24 and L26 motors.

Okay, so continuing from where I had left off, to check and see whether your modifications performed on your bell housing is correct, you will need to try and spin the input/output shaft and shift into each gear. If the input/output shaft doesn’t spin, you have an issue or if you can’t shift into any gears, you’ve got an issue. I had those above issues lol I must have bumped a shifter rod and the box felt like it had seized.

If you’re in the same position, you will have to follow the below procedure. First, open your shifter cover and while using a punch, tap the pin down and out.

Once the pin is removed, slide the ‘unknown named’ piece off.

Once that piece is off, you can take the back half of the gearbox off. No other bolts needed to be removed.

If you can’t select any gears, you need to make sure the rods are all lined up. One of my rods, I believe 5th and reverse, were pushed back and so therefore jammed everything else up. Knocking it back into position, I was able to rotate the shaft and select gears again.

Having it in this position, you are in neutral.

If you are mechanically minded, I think you will be able to understand how the gearbox gets into gear, etc. Having never pulled a gearbox apart before, I sure learnt a bit from this small exercise.

Once you’ve knocked the rods back into position, you should be able to put everything back together or make further modifications to your bell housing and making sure everything moves freely.

Only requirement now is to modify the gearbox cross member and cut the dust shield off the tail shaft which will be illustrated in a moment. For now, I wanted to pull the motor out to freshen up a few areas which needed attention.

Just want to say thanks to Tony for lending his brand new engine crane to me and lending a hand! Cheers.

Motor’s all out.

Keeping in mind that I pulled everything out, changed gearboxes because I needed to change a clutch, and what better time to do everything while it’s out… I ended up ordering an Exedy Heavy Duty item.

There are different clutch kits which fit the Z and it is important that the clutch diameter matches your flywheel, and that the pressure plate height remains consistent otherwise you will need a new throw out bearing carrier also.

The clutch kit came with a new clutch, pressure plate, spigot bush, alignment tool and throw out bearing.

Back to the motor, I first pulled things not needed out of the way and gave it a light scrub.

The goal here was to give the motor a fresh lick of paint, change the water pump, welch or better known as freeze plugs and front/rear main seals. I had bought the water pump a while back but never got around to installing it as the previous one never gave me any issues.

New water pump, bolts, front and rear main seals, and welch plugs. The welch plugs, ten are 35mm and 1 is 50mm.

First up, the water pump. Simply unbolt and take off.

Installation of the new item should be a straight forward bolt on. I threw out the gasket and just used a gasket maker which I’ve had better success with.

Next up are the welch/freeze plugs. I have given the block a few coats of Ford blue.

To remove the welch plugs, simply use a chisel or screw driver and a hammer, knock one side of the plug until it falls into the block.

Use a pair of pliers then pull it out. As you can see, they’re already corroding. Better to replace them now than to wait for them to rust through and leak.

Repeat another 10 times. To install the new plugs, get the largest socket you can fit into the new welch plugs, and hammer them into the block. Simple as that! It is recommended that you sand the hole down a bit so that the new welch plugs don’t leak or pop out.

Moving onto the rear main seal.. The best way to remove these I have found is to get a self tapping screw, a drill bit to suit and drill into the seal, making sure you don’t scratch any surface of the crank or block.

Screw the self tapping screw into your new hole.

And using pliers, pull the seal out.

To re-install the new seal, find something of similar diameter, I found a pot which broke after a few taps lol

Place new seal over your crank with a bit of engine oil to lubricate it.

And then use your pot or something similar in diameter to knock it in evenly. You can use your old seal, placed on backwards, to help push the new seal in. Tap it in until it sits flush.

All done!

Now, the front main seal. Your first step is to remove the crank bolt, it is 27mm. You can stop the crank from spinning by installing two old fly wheel bolts on the crank at opposite ends, and put a pole in between them and wedge it on the floor.

I re-installed the bolt without the washer.

You will need a puller to take the pulley off.

This little thing was leaking oil all over ever since I got the car. I’m happy to be changing it!

For the front main seal, I just pried this one out with a screw driver.

To install the new seal, same thing as the rear main seal, find something of similar diameter and tap it in evenly.

Here’s a poor photo of the motor with the pulley and water pump back on.

The following day’s work was to put the motor back into the car, here’s a picture of the accessories back on the motor. Ignore how I’ve lifted the motor, I didn’t trust the manifold bolts.

Time to put the flywheel back on. I bought brand new ARP bolts, they’re the same thread and pitch as those used on 3SGE Toyota motors or RB Nissan motors.

Don’t forget to place your backing plate on first before installing your flywheel.

Using some locktite, torque them up to spec.

Next up, install your new spigot bush.

Grease it up a little bit, find a socket of similar diameter and knock it in gently.

You are now ready to install your clutch and pressure plate. Don’t forget to wipe down the surface of your newly machined flywheel with brake cleaner. They’ve sprayed something on it to reduce corrosion and leaving it on will result in slippage and shudder.

Remember that the fatter end of the clutch faces the pressure plate. See below.

So what you do is place the clutch in between the pressure plate and flywheel, lightly tighten up the pressure plate to hold it in place. Once it’s held in position, before you torque it all up, insert your alignment tool. Make sure it sits snug and tight.

You’re ready to torque up the pressure plate bolts. Tightening them in a crisscross direction to avoid uneven pressure on the clutch.

Take out the alignment tool and this end is ready!

Before you can bolt your gearbox up, you will need to change the throw out bearing. To do so, you will need a socket of similar diameter to the bearing carrier and a few planks of wood.

Rest the bearing on the planks of wood and knock the bearing carrier out of the bearing. Install the new bearing by knocking the carrier into the bearing. Pretty straight forward.

Give the carrier a light grease and install it with the clutch fork in the bell housing.

And then bolt your new gearbox onto the motor.

The motor was then put back into the car as one. Had a few issues, engine crane didn’t clear the car underneath, length of the crane was a tad too short which meant taking the motor and box which was halfway in engine bay back out, resulting in scratches etc..

The damage.

But the motor ended up going in.

Now onto the final part of this gearbox conversion! Finally..

As you can see, the gearbox cross member needs to be modified. The mount on the gearbox sits about 25mm further back compared to the original box.

What I did was section an area of the cross member and shifted it back 23mm from memory and welded it in place. Looks a bit dodgy with the wet paint in the pictures, but it was pretty solid.

I installed the cross member and realised the bolt to tighten the gearbox mount bolt wasn’t accessible, so I had to remove a bit of metal.

I have seen people completely remake their cross member but I don’t have the skills for that lol This will do..

Install it and it should all fit!

The last part to this conversion is the tail shaft. Simply remove the dust shield on the end which goes into the gearbox.

I only removed 10mm to clear the diff mount but I soon realised this wasn’t enough, take my advice, remove the entire cover!

And you’re done… I still need to paint that airbox and polish the cam cover though..

With the RB gearbox, although you don’t need to shorten the tail shaft, your shifter does sit further forward. The below photo is of the shifter in neutral.. It looks like it’s in first or third! Your hand might hit the climate control, you can cut and shut the shifter to reposition it or bend it.. I haven’t decided what to do yet.

My speedo cable plugged right in, so did reverse switch BUT.. The reverse lights stay on the entire time.

I had read that 5 speed boxes don’t require any modifications to the reverse switch on the bell housing, only the 4 speeds do, but I ran into this issue of it staying on. I should have double checked myself, but I can say that 5 speed gearbox will require you to move the switch location forward 25mm or so. I will have to pull the gearbox back out and apart to fix this :(

Other than that, the gearbox has been good. I just need to run in the clutch. There are heaps of articles and documentations on this conversion but if there’s any questions, feel free to ask.


FS5W71C / RB gearbox conversion – Part 1

Hey all,

So it’s been a while since there has been an update. For the regular followers, you would remember from my previous post that my clutch has started to slip and my 2nd gear synchro is causing me grief. Well I have since done my research and gone ahead with a gearbox replacement while I’m changing the clutch.

I have decided to go and do a FS5W71C gearbox conversion. It is better known as the gearbox which came out of the RB, SR or even KA powered cars. The boxes which were installed in the 240z’s were basically the older models of these gearboxes so conversions aren’t ridiculously difficult.

The box I have picked up is out off an RB30 powered Skyline, gearboxes off an RB motor are known to be shorter in length than the SR/KA gearbox. Having gone the RB route, this will allow me to run my current tail shaft instead of needing to shorten it if I were to go SR/KA.

So with this little project spanning over a couple of days/weeks, I have decided to park the Z in my messy, dusty, little garage.

I couldn’t figure out a way to jack the front end up once the rear was up so I left it like that and squeezed underneath to pull the exhaust, tail shaft and eventually the gearbox, clutch and flywheel.

I just want to take a moment and say thanks to my mate Vinh for lending a hand!

So in about 2 hours, we managed to pull the gearbox out from under the car. The bell housing got caught on the gearbox cross member mounts, but after jacking the rear up, we managed to drag it out.

Here it is.. the dirty old FS5W71B.

Next, it was time to pull off the pressure plate and clutch to find out what size flywheel I had and pull that out.

So the rear main looks to be leaking, it’ll be replaced when the motor is pulled out in a few days. You will probably notice there’s no spigot bush.

Well… it kinda broke apart some time ago and it fell out.

After a quick inspection, the clutch appears to have been only contacted the flywheel/pressure plate on its outer edge.. Wonder what happened there.

Anyway, the whole point of this day’s exercise was to find out the flywheel diameter so I could order a new clutch to suit.

The flywheel measures out to be 225mm.

I had a bit of a worry after seeing a few hairline stress fractures on the surface of the flywheel but after having it machined, it’s turned out good as new! I had planned to go a lighter flywheel but I’m too poor.

Okay, back to business. Gearbox conversion, what do we do? Well firstly, we need to pull off the existing bell housing and modify it, and then transfer it over onto the RB gearbox.

First, you should pull out the reverse switch.

Go and look inside your bell housing, undo the 5 bolts to the plate. Ignore that I’ve taken off the fork pivot, you’ll need to put it back.

Take off the plate once the bolts are off, if you’re having trouble like I did, you can go and look through your clutch fork hole, and use a hammer to knock it out and off the input shaft.

And she’s off!

The next step is to remove the two circlips around the input shaft. You can make it out in this picture.

Once the circlips are out, time to undo the bolts holding the bell housing onto the rest of the gearbox.

Once they’re out, stand the gearbox up on it’s input shaft, on a piece of wood or something, and give the bell housing a few hits with a mallet. It should all break loose.

Take a quick look at your gears and bearings!

Here’s a quick side by side comparison with the new RB box. Sorry I forgot to take photos of them together before the bell housing came off.

Same lengths..

The RB box looks a little fatter than the L series. Probably just an illusion since the RB box still has its bell.

Once you’re done comparing the two boxes and inspected the gears, it’s time to repeat the above process on the RB/new gearbox.

Less than 5 mins later..

The two gearboxes side by side. Dirty gearbox is the L series one from the car.

Here’s the two bell housings side by side, I basically need to have the left bell housing looking like the right, minus the counter shaft bearing hole since I will be using the L series bearing to save me some trouble.

Since I will be using the L series counter shaft bearing, I will only need to bore out the 1-2 shifter rod hole in the bell housing, from 13mm to 16mm. But first, I need to remove the counter shaft bearing from both the L and RB gearboxes and put the L series bearing on the new RB gearbox.

Use whatever method you can to get these off, a bearing puller, press, etc. I just used a screwdriver and puller. After a few minutes..

And repeat on the RB gearbox,

You can see that the L series bearing is smaller than the RB. Some people keep the bigger bearing on but you will be required to bore out the hole on the bell housing, from 55mm to 61mm or so.

I don’t have the equipment or hookups to do that so I have just transferred the bearings over and left the bore size.

Simply place the new/old L series bearing over the new RB gearbox’s counter shaft and tap it on evenly. And you’re done.. for this stage.

Now onto the bell housing modifications. Here’s a view of the L series bell housing, no mods yet performed.

So of the two large holes, hole on the left (smaller one), this is the counter shaft bearing hole. Since I am keeping the standard bearing, this does not need to be bored out. If you kept the RB counter shaft bearing, this needs to be bored out.

Although I don’t need to bore out the hole, you will have to remove 1mm or so of material to accommodate the larger gears from the RB box.

Of the three smaller holes at the bottom, you will be required to bore the far right (1-2 shifter rod) hole out to 16mm.

Below is work where I’ve just grinded down the counter shaft bearing hole to accommodate the larger gears.

And this is all so far for Part 1 of the FS5W71C / RB / SR / KA gearbox conversion. I don’t have access to a 16mm drill bit to bore out that shifter hole yet. Once that’s done, I can trial fit this bell housing on to the RB gearbox to see if everything clears. That will be covered in the next post.

For now, I need to find a replacement clutch, currently looking at an Exedy item from an R32/RB20det. A gasket set will be purchased to replace the rear main seal and spigot bush etc.

I have forgotten to mention it but this gearbox conversion (as well as SR or KA) will require modifications to the gearbox cross member. It needs to be shifted back 35mm or so. I will cover this as it comes.


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